Then, consult the following guide. The very first step is to get the first layer adjusted. Fortunately with Marlin, this is quite easy and you can use mesh bed levelling. Get the bed fairly flat initially using the normal levelling technique that the AnyCubic includes, then follow this guide.
Use a thin piece of paper thermoprint receipt paper is perfectand do it while the bed and nozzle is hot. The next part is to calibrate the extruder stepper. I measured out mm of filament, and told it to extrude mm. A longer length gives better accuracy.
M502 - Factory Reset
Read the calibration guide for instructions. After doing that, measure the thickness of your filament in a few points and adjust the filament thickness in Cura to suit.
In my case, my filament is a LOT thicker than 1. Now you have your extruder calibrated, you can print a calibration cube. At this point, all your axes should be calibrated, your bed is level, and you know how thick your filament is - so the majority of the dimensional calibrations are done.
You next need to print a temperature tower. However, this will require some manipulation in Cura to make it work.
Start GCode routines
Consult the readme, and in there you will find a list of the layer Z heights that should correspond to what temperatures. From there, you can use Cura extensions to fix it. Click Add a script again, and repeat. Print it off, and then examine it. Select the temperature that looks best for me that was degreesand that will be your new default print temperature.
What works for you may be different from what works for me, but I adjusted the following settings and got fairly good results so far this is all based from the default Normal profile. After all the above is done, you should have your temperatures dialed in, Cura set up with some useful parameters, and your axes all calibrated.
Your bed should be flat. Next up is to tweak the G-Code used to start the build. This procedure prints a short line of filament at the front of the bed before wiping the nozzle away to clear it. This is pretty similar to the default Cura settings for the AnyCubic. A few things warrant talking about though. This should be done just after reaching the home position. The steps after mesh leveling and before the final platform position change setting the head 15mm above the platform perform the wipe.
Ok, that was a lot. See how it goes!I guess the easiest way might be to set up a new machine of the same type.
Subscribe to RSS
Just because I had a nightmare trying to restore mine even after reinstalling these might help someone:. I have had this too, tinkering with the headers and then not knowing if i have broken something.
A "reset to defaults" button for each script would be cool. Once you have edited it, unless you save it away its gone, and even if you reinstall it picks up your old preffernces file with the edits in it.
This was the first thing I tried when I messed up my start. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment.
AnyCubic i3 Mega Tuning
Recommended Posts. Where do i go and what do i do? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. That didnt do anything. Code remained the same. Reinstalling Cura is one Solution. On my system.
For my TronXY I never bothered with changing it away from the "basic" settings that a "custom 3D printer" on Marlin gave, but this time I want to know what I type in there. The basic code, after I dragged out the G-code handbook from the RepRap wiki to add the missing comments is:.
The RepRap Wiki suggests that there could be made so much more from this. I would love to swipe the nozzle before starting to print, making sure that the curled up filament from this first extrusion doesn't get squished against the nozzle and make a bad first layer. The code already made by Ultimaker Cura 3 and then commented on can be explained a little more:. G28 ;Home This homes your machine to hit end stop positions, from now on your printer knows the coordinates of the print volume.
G1 Z Basically you will have some filament dangling on your nozzle now, or falling of as the nozzle is hot creating a fine string. You now are facing the possibility that the primed material will be dragged along the build plate to the start of the print. An alternative I really like is the priming sequence of the Ultimaker 3. The hot end is instructed near the origin of the printer at about a height of 2 mm above the build plate when it starts to extrude plastic, once the extruded plastic becomes a puddle of about 6 mm in diameter the build plate lowers a few mm's and keep extruding for a bit.
It then moves in positive Y direction to the back and raises the platform this is the swipe actionthen retracts and starts to move to the print start.
Now the puddle of filament stays near the origin and will not be dragged. You can easily make a similar schematic for your printer, I've done so also for various printers. Try and experiment what works best for you.
The swipe action is the movement where the nozzle will be instructed to move near the build plate while moving in a certain direction Y or Xa height of a few tenths is enough to swipe.
With my TronXY X1 I learned pretty fast, that this first bit of extrusion on an unheated bed can totally mess up the first layer by being just in the way, as explained in the question.
To some degree, this behavior can be avoided by adding a skirt of a certain length. An equally good alternative that also increases bed adhesion for tricky parts is the brim. Both are not set via G-code but can be added by the slicer. In Ultimaker Cura both are found in the tab Build Plate Adhesion as type, as the following pictures show:. For his Wanhao he used for the video just this start G-code script:.
The nozzle temperature is where it should be degrees or so for ABS while printing and I get no error messages in Cura. What would cause the extruder to not function when printing even though it seems to be fine electrically, mechanically, and in firmware?
Is there g-code from Cura that could be incorrect? This is my first 3D printer. It is a Alunar M a Prusa clone that I got for free in a partially disassembled state. The firmware seemed to be screwed up when I first started using it.
I had to make one change to the configuration file to reverse the X home direction, but otherwise I have not changed the firmware settings or anything. The new firmware does not recognize the SD card slot at all, but that's a different story. I'm using Cura to print via USB. Nozzle size:. It turns out the problem was a firmware issue. Using the gcode below from David Lotts in the commentsI was able to determine that the extruder was running backwards.
A flag in the firmware reversed it, solving the problem. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Extruder motor does not turn Ask Question. Asked 2 years, 1 month ago.
Active 2 years, 1 month ago. Viewed 4k times.
I'm not sure where to look for problems. Scott Saunders. Scott Saunders Scott Saunders 2 2 silver badges 6 6 bronze badges. Oh, and I do not know whether the change in firmware requires a corresponding config change in Cura. Reset the printer using the button or power on. Active Oldest Votes. M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F E20 ;extrude 20mm of feed stock.Whenever I start a new print I always have to remove the filament by hand after priming.
Does anyone here have a good start gcode that cleans the primed filament hanging from the extruder on the bed before starting print? The one I have right now is the standard cura and is really bad. I'm also thinking about installing octoprint and it would not be possible to start a print from there with the hanging filament that comes now :S.
Another noob question. What is the best and easiest way to install my glassbed I just recieved on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. Thank you for all the answers guys! I think I will go for the velcro to wipe it off completely. As for the glass bed I've tried putting it on bu I'm not able to lower the surface enough so the extruder nozzle touches the buildplate. Should I just remove or shorten the springs?
Because it seems like they can't compress enough. I do multiple skirts around the object s depending on the size of the print larger parts will get at least three skirts, and smaller parts might get 5. You can also set a distance instead of a number of skirts.
This helps with the hanging chad that needs to be removed as it will more than likely get deposited in the skirt. I often pick that part off as the skirt is being applied, tweezers are nice to have. I will also wipe the tip as the extruder starts its movement to help. This process is usually very successful. I haven't had much luck with the gcode solution. I used small binder clips. Put the glass ontop of the buildtak sheet and used clips.
Makes swapping glass out very easy. I have multiple glass platforms. Helps eliminate down time. I have not used a surface between the glass and the platform other than the buildtak. This has worked very well for me and my monoprice maker select v2. Hope this helps. I typically use a purge line at the start of every print. This is basically a single line just outside the edge of the print area. My starting gcode below:. I think you want a skirt.
A circle or two outside your print area. It "primes" the print head so to speak. Cura doesn't support that, so if you wanted to continue with Cura you could go with a wide brim. I use Repetier and Slic3r and use a skirt. As for your glass bed, I use binder clips. The ones I use don't make any noise, and removal is a snap. Cura does support a skirt of you wish to run one. In the new versions and in the older versions you can run with a skirt if you choose.
The code above is close to what I use, its almost exactly the same as the older version I was using a long time ago.Some customizations are needed to use alternative slicing software.
Your slicing software will need these variables replaced with specific values for your specific filament. Failure to select the proper wiping temperature can lead to errors or potential damage. Nylon-based filament may require a higher cleaning temperature. Update the following nozzle cleaning and probing temperatures found in the larger start GCODE section. Once the above variables and temperatures have been updated for your specific filament, copy the start GCODE into your slicer of choice.
After your object has been printed the TAZ 6 will move the bed away from you while it cools to the ideal part removal temperature for that specific filament.
The print surface will move forward once the ideal part removal temperature has been achieved. Refer to the Recommended Temperatures table found in your user manual when updating part removal temperature. Failure to update your end GCODE with the specific recommended part removal temperature for your desired filament may lead to potential damage to your print surface.
Skip to main content. Log in Register.Clean 3D printer nozzle using Start G-code and brush CR10 version
Search form Search. May 25, Proceed to the next section. LulzBot TAZ 6.In your slicer you will have a section for GCode commands that are run at the very start and end of every print. There are several good videos on this topic that are linked at the bottom of this article. These will give you a great introduction into what is possible to achieve with starting and ending gcode commands.
If the filament is left at home position for too long while the nozzle is hot, the filament can ooze out. Then the nozzle will not be ready for printing. The purge and prime gets the filament flowing again ready for printing. Replace the start gcode listed above with the lines below - or watch the videos below. Thanks to DaHai for the wipe script. As the home positions on the A5 has the bed towards the back of the printer, one useful command to add to the end GCode, is a command to bring the Y-axis forward to the front once the print is finished.
Your 3D printer must wait to get to temperature before trying to prime the extruder. Without doing so, it will do nothing but grind the gears on the filament or crush flexible filament unless it is still hot enough from a print immediately beforehand. However, the three lines below only have software-specific notation. If you are using Cura, then you do not need to add these lines to your start gcode, they are automatically added.
If you are using Slic3r, then you may want to check that you have the following lines in your start gcode. For Cura you can add additional wait commands to the start gcode if you want, but note that the format is slightly different See here :.
User Tools Register Log In. Site Tools Search. General Info Firmware. Typically this contains several functions: Home and reference all axis. Wipe the nozzle on the bed not enabled by default - you need to add your own commands, see below. Enable auto-bed or mesh-bed levelling if configured. G1 Z Start GCode Routines at Reprap wiki.